Would you consider plastering your wall yourself?
If it’s a small area, it might not be worth hiring a professional. If you’re thinking of plastering your wall yourself, here are some tips.
First, we advise against plastering the wall yourself if you don’t have the necessary skills. Here’s a guide on how to plaster a surface like an expert. It includes information about exterior and interior plastering. It includes information about the proper tools needed to skim plaster off a wall.
Get started plastering walls by creating a shopping list:
You can find most of these items at your local trade shop, like Bunnings and Mitre10.
- Spot board
- Finishing trowel
- Clean paint brushes 1″ and 4
- Bucket trowel
How do you plaster walls exactly?
Plastering walls is something that is easy to learn, but it takes practice to perfect. It’s not impossible to do it – but it is much more noticeable when compared to a job done professionally and one that was done by someone new. The quality of the plaster is what will determine the quality and appearance of the paint.
The importance of the final finish can help you decide if it’s worth it. If you are looking to sell your property, it might be better to hire a professional plasterer. Or maybe you just focus on the painting part if you want to cut costs.
A DIYer can confidently perform many types of plastering jobs. This includes:
- Plasterboard installation to a stud wall or ceiling using screws, nails, or a wood frame
- Skimming a plasterboard surface and re-skimming a room.
- You can repair plaster surfaces using a bare brick and a skim-applied finish.
- Plasterboard installation on solid walls is done with plasterboard adhesive, also known as “dot-and-dab” or “drylining.”
You will need to be careful with the final plaster finish and ensure it is evenly applied. Otherwise, plaster repairs could prove to be more costly than hiring a professional to complete the solid plastering in auckland.
How do you install a plasterboard?
To avoid replastering an old wall
Plastering an old wall with a plasterboard will save you time and reduce the need to use traditional methods of wall plastering. Plastering a new wall is much easier when you don’t have to do any prep work.
You can find a variety of plasterboards on the market based on their thicknesses and sizes. Discuss the installation of the plasterboard with a representative at your local store or a local contractor.
The first thing you need to do is cut the plasterboard. When fixing plasterboard to stud walls, you will cut at the center of the noggin. To cut plasterboard, you’ll need the following tools:
- Straight Edge
- Retractable Knife
- Measure tape
- Pad Saw
Measure the sheets to determine the floor-to-ceiling height.
Mark the line of cutting on the ivory side, and then use a straight edge or craft knife to cut it.
Flip the plasterboard upside down and fold one end in half. Then, cut the board to fit. To cut through the backing paper, use a craft knife.
Attach the plasterboard to your frame with someone else. It’s easier if you have two people. Use a bolster chisel to wedge the board at its foot. Slide a piece of wood underneath, and then use your foot and pressure the board against the ceiling. Place the plasterboard so that the ivory side faces outwards.
Place the plasterboard screws 32mm in length at approximately 150mm intervals and 15mm from the edges. Continue fitting the boards as usual, cutting them to fit against adjacent walls and above the doorway. You will need to cut the plasterboard around a skirting board if you have one.
To give your wall a smooth finish, make sure to seal the joints with plasterboard taping.
Plastering the undercoat on a wall
You are now ready to plaster your wall. Use two trowels each to apply the plaster mixture on your hawk. Spread the plaster evenly but not too thinly. After pushing the straight edge, pull the beads upwards. Slide it side-to-side as you go. Then, scrape the plaster from the bucket and return it to your trowel or hawk.
Repeat the process several times until you have a smooth finish. After 2-3 sections, the plaster will be hardened. You will notice a smoother area when you have finished. Use a small tool to fill in any gaps between the doorframe and adjoining walls. After a while, the undercoat plaster should be dry and hardened.
Wait approximately 20 minutes after the plaster has dried completely. The trowel can be used to smoothen out any bumps or lumps. Also, smoothen all corners and edges, such as the top and bottom of the wall. These areas are often difficult to plaster correctly. To smoothen the edges, use a wet toothbrush.
Scraping or scratching the wall
This is done by professionals prior to applying the second coat. It ensures that the second coat sticks properly. This is done with a special tool called a “devilling float,” which is a wooden float that has nails embedded. It’s the easiest and most efficient way to do it. An old kitchen fork can be used to scratch the surface.
Applying the second layer of plaster to the wall
You can then apply the second and final coats of plaster after you have scratched or devilled the first layer. The second and final coat should be thinner than the first. Make sure to add more water to the plaster mixture. Plaster a 2 mm thin layer. Allow the plaster to dry slightly.
Flatten any lumps in plaster while it is still slightly wet. Once it has hardened, you can still use the sandpaper to remove excess plaster or to smoothen the surface before painting or wallpapering.